Natural Stone - Tile and Stone by Villagio

Going All Natural: Pro’s and Con’s of Natural Stone

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Natural stone tiles are distinct and unique. 
You should always view several pieces of the tile that is to be installed before the installation begins. Since it has been created by nature, not only are no two pieces exactly alike, those two pieces may not even be very similar.

The most common natural stone tiles include:
Slate, flagstone (sandstone), marble, granite, travertine and limestone. Each stone has unique characteristics and maintenance requirements.

Generally, you should seal natural stone tile before grouting,
unless you are planning on using the grout color in the stone as a design element.

Most natural stones are not resistant against common household acids (like lemon juice) or oil stains.
Therefore, you should use a penetrating sealer for all natural stones after installation. Follow manufacturers instructions on frequency of re-application.

The advantages of natural stone

– Timeless, unique appearance
– Design capabilities of through-body color material
– Perceived value
– Durable countertops and floors (granite)
– May be re-polished if scratched

The disadvantages of natural stone

– Ongoing re-sealing program is required
– Limited chemical and stain resistance
– Higher installation costs than ceramic tile
– Product received seldom looks like the sample

Caring for Ceramic - Tile and Stone by Villagio

Caring for Ceramic Tile

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Cleaning
All ceramic tiles are stain resistant and require very little maintenance. A basic maintenance program would be to dust mop and spot-mop as necessary, then mop with a cloth-mop and neutral cleaner on a regular basis. However, some tiles will have better dirt hiding capabilities than others, and some will be easier to maintain than others.

Dirt hiding capabilities
Tiles with texture and multiple colors will hide dust and dirt better than tiles with smooth, monochromatic colors.

Slip resistance
A ceramic tile surface is more slip resistant than almost any other flooring surface. However, be aware that an abrasive surface will require an occasional deep cleaning.

Sealing
Glazed ceramic tile floor will never need sealing, waxes or coatings of any kind. Some through body porcelain tiles may; check with the porcelain manufacturer to verify requirements.

Sweeping
Tracked in dirt is abrasive and can damage your floor tile. Sweep floor regularly to prevent loose dust & abrasive particles from scratching your floor. Sweep floor with a dust mop or vacuum sweeper (without a beater brush or bar).

Mopping
Mop floor weekly to maintain appearance using a string or cloth-type mop. Sponge mops can streak your floor and shouldn’t be used. Clear water or neutral pH cleaners are recommended for ceramic tile and grout surfaces. Follow manufacturer instructions on cleaning and rinsing for best results. Protect your investment

– Equip furniture legs with felt floor protectors. Dirt and sand embedded into plastic or wooden legs act as sandpaper as furniture is moved across your floor.
– Place rugs or mats both inside and outside of exterior entryways.
– Place rugs or mats at areas around kitchen sinks and dishwashers to prevent impact damage from dishes and utensils.
– Damaged ceramic tile floor can usually be replaced and restored to original condition if you have extra tile available from your specific shade.
– Purchase several extra pieces to keep on hand for repairs.
– Contact a licensed tile contractor to make the repair.

Never, Never, Never
– Never seal or wax your ceramic tile. These coatings are unnecessary. They will attract and hold dirt on your floor surface.
– Never use vinegar or bleach for regular cleaning. They can adversely affect the tile and grout with continual use. – Never use steel wool or abrasive cleaners for ongoing maintenance. They can mar your tile surface if used repeatedly.

Keep this in mind
Your ceramic tile can be maintained with minimal effort. Follow these basic care and maintenance guidelines and your floor will retain its beauty for years to come.

Guide to Stone

Pocket Guide to Stone

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Limestone

Created from corals and shells that have settled on ocean floors and consolidated to form into calcite. Typically, there are visual fragments of corals, shells and other fossils in limestone. The density and hardness of limestone varies widely. The most durable limestone can withstand heavy airport terminal traffic (John Wayne Airport) while others aren’t adequate even for residential floors. Limestone is primarily available in subdued, earthy colors with a honed finish. It is not acid resistant.

Travertine

Limestone deposits (calcite) that have been dissolved by groundwater. The characteristic holes in travertine are the result of the hot water and gases escaping during the formation process. Ideal for floors, walls, and splashes. The value of this stone is determined by: 1) the size and number of fill holes (density), 2) rare qualities or limited availability, 3) color consistency from tile to tile, 4) factory honing, polishing and/or filling processes. Colors are abundant in creams, chocolate brown, golden and red tones. It is not acid resistant.

Onyx

The same geological makeup as travertine, however, onyx is formed in cool, cavernous conditions, similar to stalactites. Onyx is dense and will take a high polish. This multi-colored, translucent stone is most commonly available with a glossy finish. It is suitable for walls and extremely light duty (bathroom?) floors. It is not an acid resistant stone.

Marble

A travertine or limestone that has had heat, pressure and fluid activity applied and change in structure. This metamorphic transformation results in a denser stone with a myriad of colors that can be finished with a high gloss, hone or brushed. A polished finish is ideal for vertical installations or for horizontal installations where abrasion, stain and acid resistance are not a concern.

Granite

Stone that was formed by the cooling and crystallization of magma (molten rock). This extremely dense stone has a rather limited selection of colors. Granite can be finished a number of ways including flamed, hammered, a high polish. Among the most acid, stain, and wear resistant of all natural stones. Many granites are ideal for high traffic (commercial) floors and countertop installations.

Slate, Sandstone & Quartzite

As granite is broken down over time it forms smaller and smaller particles. These particles can be deposited into lakes, lagoons and oceans. Where these minerals have been deposited (along with heat, pressure and time) will determine the final stone. Finer particles can form shale. Shale, under heat and pressure, can form into slate. Beach sand can be consolidated to form into sandstone. Sandstone, under heat and pressure, can form into quartzite. With a natural cleft surface texture along with excellent acid, wear and stain resistance, many of these stones can be used indoors or outdoors in a variety of horizontal and vertical applications.

A Slate Primer

The Skinny on Slate

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What is slate?
Slate is a natural stone or rock. Rock is made up of minerals and other rocks that give it color. Natural slate usually refers to two different products; slate that originated as shale, and quartzite that originated as sandstone. Both products are metamorphic rocks, which means that over time, and under heat and pressure, they have changed in form from their original appearance and characteristics. Both slate and quartzite are quartz-based (siliceous) products. This means they share certain characteristics with granite (another siliceous stone), the most important being chemical and acid resistance.

How is slate produced?
When you look at the edge of a slate tile, you can see it’s comprised of multiple thin layers. These layers indicate how slate looks in its natural form. Slate is usually split from the quarry in layers. These layers form surface clefting, which is gives slate its pronounced surface texture. The slate is then cut into tiles or trim shapes, and it can be natural clefted, tumbled or honed.

What is honed slate?
The face of a slate tile is naturally clefted or uneven. However there are applications where a smooth face is desirable. Some slates and quartzites can have the face ground down to a smooth faced product. This process is known as honing. Many honed quartzites still have an appearance of depth and texture because of their mineral content.

What is gauged slate?
Grinding or machining one side gauges the slate. Gauging is done for two reasons: to create thickness within a defined range and to provide a flat back for ease of installation. Keep in mind that gauged slate will vary in thickness, but the range of thickness is less than a natural random thickness. Think of slate as a naturally rough stone. It’s cut into squares and gauged but not within the precise dimensional measurements of other stones like travertine or granite.

What colors does slate come in?
Slate factories may mix tiles from multiple quarries to develop extreme color ranges, and there are slates that are fairly consistent in color. You’ll find that most slates are within a color spectrum like golds and greens, browns and blacks, reds and rust or sandy beiges. Slate should be initially selected from an array of 6-9 samples tiles in order to see the anticipated color range. Final selection should be from as many pieces as you need to see to feel comfortable with the color range. This can be as few as 3-4 pieces, a picture of multiple pieces, or several actual pieces from each pallet that you’ll be receiving. See enough pieces in order to be assured that the slate you receive meets your expectations before your signed approval.

Can slate be installed outdoors?
Slate is a great choice for many outdoor installations. The natural textured (clefted) face of a slate tile provides excellent slip resistance. The multiple earthy colors of slate complement almost any style and color scheme. There are even a few slates that can withstand intense freeze-thaw cycles, but request written laboratory test results before installing slate in snowy conditions.

Can slate be installed in wet areas?
Because of its density and high chemical resistance, slate is ideal for use on patio and pool decks, as well as kitchen and baths. Slate isn’t usually recommended for areas with standing water such as inside pools, waterfalls or fountains. Natural stones should never be used in steam showers.

Should slate be sealed?
It’s not usually necessary to seal slate outdoors. However, as with any natural stone tile, slate installed indoors should be sealed with a high quality penetrating sealer. Sealer should be reapplied every 1-5 years depending on manufacturer’s recommendations and usage. Put a drop of water on the surface. If it beads up, your sealer is working. If it doesn’t, it’s time to reseal.

Insight
The objective is to understand the color, appearance and performance characteristics of the slate tile before it’s shipped so that the final installation would not only meet the buyers expectations, but will be more beautiful than they ever imagined.

INSTALL PRINCIPLES

Installation Principles

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This system consists of four integral components. The failure of any component means the failure of the entire installation.

1. Substrate

What is the condition of the substrate that you’re going to set the tile on? Is it clean and ready for tile? Is it properly cured? How will cracks be prepared? Is it level? Are there any humps, bumps or dips? How will you address expansion joints? The number one job complaint received by the Tile Council of America (TCA) revolves around inadequate preparation of the substrate and no expansion joints. Use the TCA Handbook for information regarding placement of movement joint’s.

2. Tile, trim and installation materials

Tile. “It’s all good”. Overall, tile is much better than it was 20 years ago. There are a few sub-standard products, but by and large tile is a bargain over the life of the product when compared to other flooring surfaces.

Trim. Make sure that the trim shapes perform the intended function and that they coordinate in color, shade, thickness and overall dimensions with the tile.

Installation Materials. If you skimp somewhere, don’t skimp here. As a matter of fact, many thin-set manufacturers offer lifetime warrantees on their premium polymer or latex modified setting systems (thin-set and grout). Pennies a foot for a lifetime warrantee? Sounds like a bargain insurance plan to me!

3. Installation, caulking and clean up Installation.

Sure tile is a great DIY product, however, you cannot beat the finished look of an installation when completed by a true professional. A professional tile setter will make sure that the substrate is ready to accept the tile, select the proper installation materials, layout the installation in a manner that will enhance the overall appearance and give you an installation that will last at least 40 years.

Caulking and clean up. The difference between a good installation and a poor installation is in the details. The caulk joints, the grout clean up and the overall condition of the installation is critical to produce a beautiful job.

4. Cleaning and sealing

Most slip-fall accidents don’t come from the wrong product being installed, but from inadequately maintained surfaces. As a rule, tile should be cleaned with a neutral cleaner. Vinegar, the cleaner we all used to recommend, won’t harm most tiles, but can destroy the grout – don’t use it. Change your mop water often. Hint: throw a quarter in the bottom of your mop bucket. When you can’t see it-change the water.

Sealing. Glazed ceramic tile is never to be sealed. All stones must be sealed. Many unglazed porcelain tiles must be sealed. Sealing the grout can bring the absorption of a latex modified grout down to less than 1% absorption. Sealing makes it easier for you to clean your grout, but your grout still requires cleaning (where’s that self-cleaning grout?). My personal recommendation: pick out a dirty colored grout and you’ll always be happy.